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Running Lights Diode
1992 ford f150 second New battery dies?
The alternater was checked monday it was fine the diode was fine. New starter starter relay. Today the battery gage jump from normal to 18 on the highway came to a stop went to 8 head and dash lights dimed then hit the gas went to normal lights are bright now got home turned off truck noticed the lights didnt work when door oped tried to start nothing no clicks no noice. The battery in the truck only dies while driving.I did notice a leak in my front window and water drains in steering area would that cause a short in the circuit causing the battery to drain only when its running.Only ran for a week. Has any one had this problem. I have no idea where to start. Please give me all detailed info and what tools i would need thanks
your discription is a common one for bad battery cables. here is how to test.
get a digital volt meter. set it for dc voltage. put 1 end on battery negative post not the cable clamp. put the other end on clean unpainted surface on engine. any reading above 40mV replace negative cable.
now check positive cable. put 1 end on positve battery post. put other end on the other end of positive battery cable, where it attaches to starter solenoid. here again a reading above 40mV replace positive cable.
almost done but with later model vehicles you also need to test alternator lead. put 1 end on post of alternator where the heavier wire connects. out the other end where the heavier wire connects to the stater solenoid. start engine and run at 1000 rpm. any reading here above 40mV replace heavier wire.
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Kuryakyn Diode Kit $6.76 " This kit is required when installing LED. lights as turn signals on a motorcycle with a single turn signal indicator light If this diode kit is not installed, power will back feed across the indicator light and all turn signals will ff" |
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Running Lights $15.59 No Synopsis Available |
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2010 Volvo XC60 LED Parking/ Running Lights
Using a Capacitor on a 4 Position Rotary switch?
I have a 4 position rotary switch that is built for light dimming. It has diodes connecting poles but I do not understand what the capacitator is for when there is only + running through the switch. Also, if it is not a ceramic capacitor, what else could it be?
Its used to lengthen the life of the rotary switch. The capacitor stops the arc between the contacts when switching. Kind of a shock absorber.
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